How do you make homemade cooling spray? .
Using natural products such as iron sulfate or copper sulfate to stain concrete is an easy, economical and environmentally friendly way to give old concrete a new look. Step 1: Use a mild detergent and a scrub brush to clean the concrete thoroughly. Every imperfection will show through the stain.
Most acid stains are a mixture of water, hydrochloric acid, and acid-soluble metallic salts. They work by penetrating the surface and reacting chemically with the hydrated lime (calcium hydroxide) in the concrete. The acid in the stain lightly etches the surface, allowing the metallic salts to penetrate more easily.
- Concrete stripper (sealed concrete only)
- Concrete cleaner or degreaser.
- Etching solution (water-based stains only)
- Concrete stain.
- Neutralizer (acid stains only)
- Roller or sprayer.
- Mask or respirator.
There are products on the market that will paint or resurface concrete but to go cheap, use the least expensive oil base stain or paint you can find. Mix the paint/stain with paint thinner in a 50-50 solution. That is one gallon of paint to one gallon of paint thinner.
Concrete stain embeds the surface to color it translucently, while opaque concrete paint covers the top of the concrete but is subject to chipping and peeling when improperly applied. Concrete stains go on quicker, dry faster and take less work than concrete paint, but they offer no significant protection.
Be sure and remove any residue left behind if using our acid stain, then apply sealer. Don’t seal too soon as there could be moisture in the floor and hazing can occur. A good rule of thumb is to wait 24 hours time after any water has been applied to the floor before sealing.
To keep exterior stained surfaces protected, apply a new coat of sealer every year or two, or as necessary. When you begin to notice that water no longer beads up on the surface, it’s time to reseal.
Although concrete stain is permanent and won’t flake off like paint, it penetrates only the top layer of the concrete surface and will eventually wear away as the surface is worn by traffic or weather exposure.
The color can’t fade, but the concrete can. … Left unprotected or weakened by a poor mix design or finishing job, the surface of concrete “dusts” and erodes slowly until fine aggregate and sand particles are exposed. This same process occurs in colored concrete.
According to appropedia.org, the proper mixture is two pounds of iron sulfate to one or two cups of coffee grounds, and one gallon of water. Do not let the mixture sit for more than a few minutes, since the iron sulfate will begin to collect at the bottom of the bucket.
If you’re trying to decide if staining your own concrete is something you can do, make sure you’ve done your homework. Staining concrete is not as easy or as forgiving as staining wood, but that doesn’t mean it is impossible.
Concrete floors are a great alternative to linoleum, carpet, wood, tile, stone or marble flooring. Concrete can be stained nearly any color, resurfaced in a variety of textures and finishes, or polished for a smooth, shiny look. Plus, concrete flooring is durable, long-lasting and easy to clean and maintain.
Your existing old concrete should be fine to stain, so long as it is not contaminated with glue, paint, oil, grease, sealers, waxes, or anything else that would prevent the stain from soaking into the pores of the concrete.
When it comes to concrete stain vs. dye, the main difference is that a stain will chemically react with the concrete, while a dye will simply permeate the material. Here’s some more information on both concrete stains and concrete dyes.