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Currently, MoonBoards are available in a mostly DIY form. Branded panels cost about $1,280 and the holds cost about $606. For the LED kit, climbers can spend an additional $648.
The MoonBoard is great for training dynamic, “poppy” movement—especially for climbers with very controlled technique. But, dynamic climbers take note: You can use the board to increase body tension and controlled movement by not letting your feet cut.
The Moonboard is a specific kind of bouldering: short, steep and fingery. If your outdoor projects don’t have those characteristics you might struggle (Fontainebleau). I find the benchmarks to be 1-2 grades harder than outdoor benchmarks of a similar style.
Perhaps for one reason: Moonboard problems get harder almost exclusively by moving holds further and further apart. Most outdoor problems do it by the holds getting worse in terms of angle, structure, friction, size. Moon holds are almost all jugs or mini-jugs/incut.
The standardized MoonBoard panel dimensions are 8 feet in width (11 t-nut columns) by 10.3 feet in height (18 t-nut rows).
So, when should you start with fingerboard training? Short answer: When you stop to improve steadily by just climbing, then you can begin to work on more finger strength. This is usually after 1-2 years of regular climbing training.
In accordance with a Reddit suggestion from Miles Adamson, climbing three days a week, if you are only climbing on a MoonBoard, might be best. Anymore, and your body has difficulty recovering in time for your next session. It is best to think about it as a substitute for hangboarding.
You are permitted to use any part of the numbered hold. Matching and heel hooking is permitted. The grading system is either Font or V grades.
- Door Frame Pull-ups (upper body) …
- Textbook Hold (grip) …
- Plank (core) …
- Tricep Dips (upper body) …
- Single-leg Toe Touches (lower body and balance) …
- 30-second One-Legged Balance Stand (balance) …
- Wrist Winds (forearm strength)
A MoonBoard can be built at an angle of either 25° or 40°, according to the user’s preferred difficulty. Some users even have multiple MoonBoards to give them access to a choice of hold setups.
The MoonBoard is designed to train strength and power. The classic problems force the feet to track the hands making powerful dynamic movements, challenging high-steps, and tenuous heel-hooks the name of the game.
Ravioli Biceps is a 32 year-old powerhouse with dark hair, a short beard and tattoos — skulls, roses, knives, chains, birds — decorating his arms, legs and back. He prefers to remain anonymous, saying, “I’m just a guy with a job, who really likes to MoonBoard.”
| Freestanding MoonBoard | Mini DIY MoonBoard | |
|---|---|---|
| 40° | 40° | |
| Height (inch) | 11’7” 59/64 | 80″ |
| Width (inch) | 8′ 1/16 | 97″ |
| Depth (inch) | 5’11” 11/32 | 67″ |
The spray wall is a wall or series of walls with hundreds of randomly placed holds and/or volumes. You will find them in most gyms and training centers throughout the world. Ask any top climber and they will say that this is the easiest way to train most aspects of climbing.
Starting from the top of the Moonboard place a mark every 8 inches down each side of the board (half way between your pre-existing bolt holes). Use the chalk line to snap a horizontal line between the marks from one side to the other. Each LED light is designed to be installed below the hold it lights-up.
Unless you make your wooden hangboard at home, they are the more expensive option. Usually, they are made of high-quality wood, and they are a lot easier on your skin than the harder plastics.
Maximum Hangs We wouldn’t recommend more than 2 sessions per week on the fingerboard. Max hangs focus on top end strength. They tend to work by improving neuromuscular connections in your muscles, allowing them to work fast and efficiently, effectively making the most out of their potential strength.
They deserve their own session with their own warm-up and cool-down. If you want to build serious finger strength, do two sessions of max hangs per week, and separate those sessions by at least 48 to 72 hours.
MOONBOARD RULES ALL PROBLEMS START FROM A SITTING POSITION. ALL PROBLEMS START TWO HANDED. IF THERE IS ONLY ONE START HOLD YOU NEED TO START WITH MATCHED HANDS. PROBLEMS MUST START WITH BOTH HANDS ON DESIGNATED START HOLD OR HOLDS AND FINISH WITH BOTH HANDS ON DESIGNATED FINISH HOLD OR HOLDS.
- 3-4 total problems that are very different from each other in terms of wall angle, hold type, and movement style.
- Rest 2-3 minutes between attempts, and 5 minutes between boulders.
- Spend about 20 minutes, or about 4-6 attempts, per boulder.
You won’t feel like you’ve done much climbing, but it’s much better to undertrain power than to overtrain—quality over quantity. Keep your limit-bouldering sessions to two days a week max, with at least one rest day and/or regular climbing day in between.
Conclusion. The 2016, for the moment, earns the title: Best MoonBoard Generation. Between the irreplaceably classic boulders that have built its community, and the related pedigree, no board is more worth of this title; However, once the 2019 has a similar number of Benchmarks, it will surpass its 2016 predecessor.
How do I view MoonBoard problems & hold setups? Register for a MoonBoard account and login using this website or the free smartphone app to view all problems. To view and download a printable PDF for each hold setup, login to this website and click ‘Hold Setups’ in the sidebar menu from your account dashboard.
Slowly push your hands down until you feel a stretch in your wrists and forearms. Pause for a second, spread your fingers wide, pause for another second, then reverse the movement to the starting position. Repeat twice more.
Being able to push yourself up is one of the most important parts of climbing – hence why climbers need to have strong shoulders. … Not only are push-ups great for your shoulders, but they also help your chest muscles, arms and core.
Climbing is a full-body workout and like many body-weight exercises, it is great for building muscles. The most common muscles activated in climbing are the abdomen, forearms, shoulders, and triceps. Climbers typically report getting gains from climbing within one to two weeks of training.
The MoonBoard is a standardised bouldering training wall, designed by Ben Moon for climbers wishing to optimise their climbing performance in the simplest of environments.
The Kilter board is a modern take on a traditional training wall. Each hold has been scrutinized for comfort and grip style, allowing one to train on open hand holds, incuts, pinches, crimps and slopers. The LED light system will light up the holds that lay out the problem before you.
The common methods for training power-endurance all involve lots of climbing, usually in circuits or laps. Your muscles must be working hard, but not at their max, so you’ll want to focus on 50 to 80 percent of your limit. Power-endurance should make your forearms sore. Get 48 to 72 hours of rest between workouts.