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Cement board manufacturers imprint a gridlike pattern on one surface of the board. … Also, cement board typically has a label or manufacturer sticker on the front of the board. The back of cement board is plain, has no manufacturer-defining stickers and is void of the front-featured grid.
Which side goes up, smooth or rough? Either is acceptable, but we recommend that the smooth side with the nailing pattern of every 8″ on center go up.
To make cutouts for fixtures, outline area with a utility knife, cut through the mesh on both sides and punch out with a hammer from the back side. Alternatively, mark location and drill hole using the appropriate size hole-saw bit and drill. Smooth edges with rasp.
The smooth side is ideal for mastic applications, as it increases adhesive coverage. The textured side is ideal for mortar applications, as it enhances bonding and reduces tile slip. That said, mastic or thin-set mortar can be used on either side of the board without compromising performance.
Lay your cement board flat, and draw a line with a carpenter’s pencil where you intend to cut. Place a straightedge along the line and drag either a drywall utility knife or a scoring tool against it. Repeat your cuts two to three times to make them deeper, which will make snapping the board easier.
Screw and Joints Do not use drywall screws as they are not recommended to be used to hold the backer board in place. All of your backer board pieces should be cut before they are placed on the floor. … It is important to highlight that screws shall not be installed all the way down to the floor joists.
You don’t want to use regular drywall screws for cement boards. They can corrode, they can break down the edges of the boards, and they won’t drive in flush properly. Use ITW’s ROCK-ON and BACKER-ON screws instead.
I think the screw will care. I don’t install cement board for a living, but from talking with people/professionals who do, the proper screws should be used. You can’t just use any screw or they will corrode in that application, and Ive seen badly corroded screws from using incorrect ones. Definitely not drywall screws.
For tile backer boards such as Durock, Wonderboard, Hardiebacker, Permabase, and others the seams between the board need to be treated with 2-inch alkali-resistant mesh tape.
Contrary to popular thought, tile and grout are not waterproof, and some moisture will penetrate even if sealant is used. … However, if you choose to use concrete backerboard, which is much stronger and more durable than gypsum board, a water vapor membrane must be placed underneath it or a sealant applied on top of it.
HardieBacker is also the go-to choice when it comes to countertops and tile. Durock is too abrasive and can damage vinyl, porcelain, and enamel. HardieBacker does not contain any course materials, so it is the preferable choice. It has a warranty that extends over the use of vinyl tile applications.
To cut DUROCK Brand Cement Board, mark desired size on the board with a rule and pencil. Score both sides and edges with a utility knife through the glass-fiber mesh, and snap the board to size. Smooth cut edges with wood rasp.
Cement board attached to plywood or similar underlayment will hold with only 1 1/4-inch screws; for thick or heavy metal fixtures, use 1 5/8-inch screws. In general, 1 1/2-inch galvanized nails will hold the board firmly in place.
Cement is a tough material to use a jigsaw to cut through, so you need to use the right blade for the job. Use a metal-cutting blade or a carbide-grit blade to cut through the board. Make sure the blade is securely fixed into the saw.
While power saws make it a lot easier, it is possible to cut cement boards by hand.
If you compare the two configurations using identical thinset mortars, tiles installed over cement backerboard have greater shear-bond strength than those that are installed over plywood. …
Not only is thinset a critical component underneath cement board but the other critical component is the fasteners. And you won’t have the fasteners if you are trying to install it over concrete.
LN-907 Liquid Nails is recommended for cement board and most other common building materials. The application temperature is from 22 to 120 Fahrenheit and the service temperature is -20 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. This makes it ideal for just about any DIY project and on most construction projects.
The simplest way to cut cement backer board is to score the surface and snap the sheet along the scored line, similar to the way you’d cut drywall. … Costing just $10 or so, the scoring tool features a single, durable tungsten-carbide tip that easily slices into the rock-hard surface of the cement backer board.
Fiberboard cement siding can be hand-nailed, but because it’s so much harder and more brittle than wood, you have to predrill holes near any edge. You can save yourself a bunch of time by using a pneumatic coil siding nail gun.
Fiber cement siding can be nailed by hand or with a pneumatic nailer. It can also be attached using corrosion resistant screws. Use hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails. Nails should penetrate through the sheathing and at least 1” into studs.
2 Answers. The thinset and mesh tape are to strengthen the seams. If you are going to tile over the cement board, you should tape the seams.
Durock Cement Boards are a type of drywall reinforced with cement for a harder surface. This type of wall material can be finished just like ordinary drywall, using joint tape and joint compound.
Spread joint compound over the length of the tape with a 6-inch drywall knife. Make the seam just wide enough to cover the entire surface of the tape (generally 3 inches). Get it smooth and flat. Dab additional compound over the screw holes on both the drywall and cement boards, near the seam but not under the tape.
You can use a jigsaw, table saw or circular saw, or another tool, as long as it’s equipped with the right kind of blade. Once prepared, cut the Hardie board as you would any other material. Mark your line; align the board against the guard as needed and slowly but firmly make the cut.
The Hardibacker will be fine to tile straight onto.
Fasten panels to subfloor while the adhesive is wet with 32 mm (1-1/4″) CGC Durock Wood Screws or 38 mm (1-1/2″) hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails spaced 203 mm (8″) o.c. in both directions.